The Vikos Gorge Crossing: One Day, An Entire Universe

The full crossing of the Vikos Gorge is, without exaggeration, one of the great walks of the Mediterranean. You start at the village of Monodendri, descend 900 metres into the earth, and emerge the same day at the village of Vikos in the north. In between is the Voidomatis River, a series of ancient stone bridges, two ruined monasteries, wild plane tree forests, and a silence so complete it has its own presence.

The descent from Monodendri is steep and unforgiving, switchbacking down crumbling shale paths. But within thirty minutes you are in a different world. The walls of the gorge rise 900 metres on both sides, and the sky is a narrow blue ribbon far above. The temperature drops by five degrees. The vegetation becomes lush and strange—mossy boulders the size of houses, springs of cold clear water appearing unexpectedly from the rock face.

At the gorge floor, the Voidomatis River appears. The colour of this water is the first thing that stops all conversation among walking companions. It is not simply clear. It is a prismatic blue-green, lit from within, flowing over white limestone pebbles with a sound like distant applause. You must cross it barefoot; the cold is an electric shock followed by pure elation.

The ascent to Vikos village at the far end is gentler, through oak forest and meadow. When you arrive, find the old man who runs the only taverna and order the grilled lamb. Drink the local tsipouro. Your legs will ache. Your heart will be absolutely, irrevocably full.